So this is the overcoat I’m working on for the Second look. It’s going to be a middle to heavyweight wool. This is still the first muslin sample, so there is still plenty of work to do for it. I actually created the pattern from my old English Styled Suit Jacket, lengthening it of course. More adjustments soon to come!!
Here’s a few pictures of my weapons of choice!! My drafting and sewing tools. I sew on this wonderful industrial single needle JUKI
I thought it would be cool to show you guys where I work. A lot of folks never even think of the design rooms where some of the worlds newest and biggest trends come out of. This is the workroom I work out of in SF. It’s on Polk close to the Tenderloin. Great building, I should take pics of that sometime now that I think about it. Anyway..the last picture is of a dear friend of mine, Antonio. He’s working on his collection for the Spring show this year at the Academy. Also featured, CRIS!! greatest tailoring instructor ever!!!! haha
And finally the first two samples in muslin. The raglan coat and the slim straight jeans. There are a few finishing details that I will incorporate in the final piece, but the muslin samples are key to find the perfect fitting. These are the final samples before production in real fabric.
Here are the actual patterns drafted for the raglan waist length trench. Also, I’ve gotten started drafting the slim straight pattern denim jeans that will go along with the coat, along with a sample of denim I washed and beat up a little.
So these two sketches are final sketches before development. These two sketches will show about 90% of the exact look that I take, going into the pattern development. For this mini collection I am going to be drafting everything to fit myself. ;) That’s the beauty of being able to draft your own patterns!! As for that other 10%, I always leave the sketches SOME room for improvement. As soon as I draft the patterns and get the correct fit, I can play with some finishing details I think may be trending or in this particular instance, that I just like. After all, I’m going to be the one wearing this.
So here are some sketches… still inspiration, but a closer to look to what the garments will actually look like. Everybody goes through their inspiration and develop process differently. I, typically have a good idea of what I will be executing from the beginning, but along the way there are always going to be changes, edits and reformations that you work through as a designer. This is how I visually work through my editing process towards development.
This concludes enough visual research to give you the idea of where my vision is. The journey I will be taking here shortly with this next mini collection will stem from the photos you’ve just seen.
As anything else pops up in which I can use for inspiration for this mini collection I will post.
Next, I will post the beginning sketches and patterns for the first garment; a black, waist length, raglan trench coat.